Waikiki Awaits

O'ahu's classic beach destination goes upscale

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As trite as it sounds, what I really like about Hawai‘i (other than the beaches, the warm water and the Pacific island food) is the aloha spirit. The easygoing island mood reminds me of the more relaxed Marin of some 30 or more years ago. It’s a welcome antidote to our overcaffeinated Bay Area lifestyle, and I was looking forward to soaking it up when I headed to Honolulu for a four-day family vacation in Waikiki.

My wife, my six-year-old and I flew on American Airlines from San Francisco to Honolulu, anticipating some fun in the sun and surf. I was also curious to see Waikiki’s much-touted renewal.

At the airport, we were greeted with the traditional flower lei before being shuttled a short distance to the Aqua Palms, a boutique hotel right across the street from the Hilton Hawai‘ian Village. The Palms represents the latest in Waikiki hotel trends—major room renovations, common-area upgrades and, in general, a more upscale, modern experience.

In the last decade, Honolulu has spent $80 million refurbishing Waikiki’s streets, sidewalks, parks and even sewer lines. Local officials saw the money as a reinvestment in an area that generates about 20 percent of the city’s tax revenue. Also, the state has begun to restore the beach, contributing about $500,000 to the effort in the last year. The hotel company Outrigger Enterprises and others, including Sheraton/Kyo-ya, Royal Hawai‘ian Shopping Center/Kamehameha Schools, Marriott, Hilton and the retail center 2100 Kalakaua, have pumped in more than $100 billion. The hospitality chain Kyo-ya owns the most rooms in Waikiki (Sheraton Waikiki, the Westin Moana Surfrider, the Royal Hawai‘ian and the Sheraton Princess Kaiulani). Outrigger, though, manages the most rooms (five Outriggers, the Ala Moana Hotel, Wyland Waikiki, Pacific Beach Hotel and six Ohana hotels in Waikiki).

Additionally, groups such as Starwood, ResortQuest Hawai‘i, Napili Partners (Hotel Renew), Outrigger Enterprises Group (Waikiki Beach Walk, Embassy Suites, Ohana) and Trump (Trump Tower) have invested in developing, remodeling and rebranding. Classic high-end properties such as the venerable Halekulani have renovated and added spas. On the whole, Hawai‘i is catering to higher-spending, longer-staying visitors, targeting its biggest market: the U.S. West Coast.

The first phoenix to rise from the rubble is the Waikiki Beach Walk, which just celebrated its completion last May—along with the 60th anniversary of Outrigger Hotels and Resorts. Roy and Estelle Kelley, founders of Outrigger opened The Islander Hotel, in 1947. In a speech commemorating both occasions, Dr. Richard Kelley, Chairman of Outrigger Enterprises and son of the founders, recalled how his parents helped the world discover Waikiki and hence all of Hawai‘i. “Waikiki Beach Walk,” he said, “marks the beginning of an exciting new era for Waikiki, building on our reputation as a world-class destination and, we believe, raising it to new heights.”

These new heights consist of eight acres of shopping, six restaurants, an outdoor entertainment plaza with daily free activities including Hawai‘ian language and hula lessons for the whole family.

Waikiki Beach was exactly what I expected: bordered by a dense wall of hotels and blanketed with a swath of sunbathers, Japanese tourists, local families and sunburned eccentrics. The beach itself is quite beautiful, a crescent-shaped stretch of sand punctuated by the signature rugged Diamond Head on the western end. Waikiki was once a special place for native Hawai‘ians and has evolved from a middle-market tourist mecca to a contemporary trendy destination.

Where to Stay

Embassy Suites This new 421-room, 21-story Embassy Suites sits at the heart of the Waikiki Beach Walk and was part of the 8-acre redevelopment program created by Outrigger Enterprises.

Rack Rates City View guest-rooms start at $269, Ocean View guest-rooms $319 and a two-bedroom, two-bath suite starts at $469. Eats Bay Area classics like Ruth’s Chris Steakhouse and Cheesecake Factory are within walking distance Wow! Guests are treated to a complimentary cooked-to-order breakfast with selections like eggs anyway you like and choose-your-own omelets. Contact 800.362.2779, embassysuiteswaikiki.com

Hilton Waikiki Prince Kuhio Following a 65-million dollar renovation, this 37- story hotel is just steps from Waikiki Beach.

Rack Rates Standard rooms start at $200 while ocean front, $299. Eats For anytime dining try the MAC 24 – 7 restaurant featuring modern American cooking. Wow! The hotel’s recent upgrades feature a swanky, contemporary look complete with flat screen televisions and designer bedding. Contact 808.922.0811, hilton.com

Moana Surfrider, A Westin Resort Known as “The First Lady of Waikiki” and built in 1901, the hotel was the height of luxury for that time, offering telephones and the first electric powered elevator in the territory. Eventually it was bought by Sheraton, and was just recently renovated and rebranded as a Westin last June.

Rack Rates $395 for city view rooms, $560 for a partial ocean view room and $640 for a deluxe ocean view room. Eats In October the resort will return to its rich history and traditions by once again offering tea service and finger sandwiches on the Banyan Veranda. Wow! Take a dip in the freshwater swimming pool, which sits directly behind the hotel’s private beach. Be sure to visit the 75-foot tall Banyan Tree, among one of the first to be listed on Hawai‘i’s Rare and Exceptional Tree List. This tree was planted by the hotel as a 7-foot sapling in 1904. Contact 808.922.3111, moana-surfrider.com

Waikiki Parc The Waikiki Parc Hotel recently completed a multimillion dollar renovation. Each room features ebony wood headboards, crisp white bedding and flat screen televisions.

Rack Rates Standard rooms start at $275, deluxe ocean view rooms start at $415. Eats Chef Nobu Matsuhisa has opened Nobu Waikiki in the lobby of the Waikiki Parc, currently the most expensive restaurant ever built in the islands. Wow! The hotel’s outdoor rooftop pool is the perfect place to enjoy a Blue Hawai‘ian and take in the sights. Ask about the Lotus Experience program—two nights and 24-hour rental of the Lotus Elise. Contact 800.422.0450, waikikiparc.com

Image:  By Ben Davidson, Twilight on Waikiki Beach

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